Kitchen Confidential with Matteo Battaini

Matteo Battaini comes from a long line of Italian epicureans and cut his teeth in the meat-curing businesses with his uncle, Dario Soresi, of famous cheese and meat manufacturers Mastro Dario.

Fish and chips. That is what Fancourt chef Matteo Battaini smelled when the farmer started his tractor against a backdrop of the magnificent Outeniqua Mountains. The biofuel used in said farmer’s tractor was a by-product of Matteo’s kitchens, which strictly adhere to the lifestyle estate’s policy of giving back to the community.

“We capture leftover cooking oil, which is then processed to become usable by different kinds of agricultural equipment,” explains Matteo, adding that this practice has been in place for years now.

However, when sniffing a whiff from his fragrance-filled workplace when the tractor was powered up, he was caught by surprise nonetheless …

Farm to table

Among other products recycled by his catering colleagues are the cartons used to transport eggs – these include between 12,000 and 15,000 free-range beauties used monthly by Fancourt’s various restaurants, clubhouses, and kiosks.

“Our strategy for fresh-product procurement is ‘farm to table’, and 90% of our food is sourced from producers within a 250km radius,” he explains.

This drive to support local is a win-win for both suppliers and consumers of Fancourt fare, be it fresh fish from Mossel Bay or berries from one of many fruit farms along the Garden Route.

“They are deserving of our recognition and it’s important to support those who grow their crops or ply their food trade here in George.”

Scaling the ladder

Matteo landed in South Africa as youngster in 1997, when following in the footsteps of dad Bruno, who emigrated from the Battainis’ home town close to Milan.

After learning the minutiae of curing meat and ripening cheese at Mastro Dario, Matteo worked his way up the culinary ladder at world-famous Fancourt in 2016.

First up was the busy kitchen of La Cantina — Fancourt’s oldest restaurant, and arguably the best-loved by members and George residents alike. After 18 months of immersing himself in the running of this on-site Italian eatery, Matteo was promoted to his current position as 2IC to executive chef Desmond Morgan.

Now his portfolio also includes Monet’s — a French bistro with favourites such as Niçoise salad, Provençal vegetable soup, crêpes, and croque-madame — and Henry White’s at the Manor House.

Apart from these restaurants, he also manages kitchens attached to The Club Lounge (affectionately known as the 19th Hole), two clubhouses serving healthy snacks to the golfing gang, and a kiosk at the recreation centre where kids’ meals are in high demand.

The whiteboard in Matteo’s office, in the bowls of La Cantina’s kitchen, provides a glimpse of the mammoth task at hand: staff rosters, food orders and general admin are tackled to ensure the smooth running of all Fancourt’s eateries.

This often means that more time is spent on paperwork than hands-on cooking. But Matteo enjoys the challenge and keeps learning in the process.

“Fancourt gives you all the tools and will never throw you in at the deep end,” he says when recounting the leadership, strategic planning and related courses already completed in the line of duty.

Soon, these training inputs will entail travelling to Spier in Stellenbosch to see how those kitchens roll, while sporadic visits to similar estates overseas allow him to exchange secrets with foreign chefs and their staff.

Kitchen confidantes

The same vast galleys also serve as a venue for Italian Masterclasses initiated by Matteo, for those interested in the art of dishing up his birth country’s most-celebrated foods.

These sessions are open to both Fancourt residents and members of the public, and Matteo regards them as unique opportunities to convey his own version of “Kitchen Confidential” to those in attendance.

“We welcome groups with antipasti and wine to ensure that people who may be a little shy soon emerge from their shells. The rest of the class is spent cooking and eating traditional pastas and pizzas — and drinking more wine!” he exclaims in his marked accent, evidence of the fact that this chef has all-things-Italy running thick as pomodoro through his veins.

* Varying degrees of lockdown regulations are impacting on the operation of the restaurants mentioned.