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Spices – an indispensable part of world history, and in their time the biggest, most tightly guarded industry that generated immense wealth.
Spices established and destroyed empires, led to the discovery of new continents, served as the major trading currency, healed the sick, refreshed the air and even inspired literature.
Spices may not be a luxury today, having lost the status and allure that once placed them alongside jewels and precious metals as the world’s most valuable commodities, but they remain just as important, with a significant history.
“They add depth, richness and nuance to a dish, giving a whole new dimension to the palate, and appealing to some of your strongest senses,” says South African food and travel writer Anél Potgieter. “If you take a dessert such as poached pears as an example, it is the enchanting star anise nestled among the pears that is so alluring. You smell that sweet liquorice aroma, and once you have a spoonful, there is a perfect symphony that comes together in your mouth and makes your taste buds sing.”
Centuries ago, the ground pepper you shake on your steak today was the most valuable spice of all, counted in individual peppercorns, and a sackful was said to be worth a man’s life. A pound of ginger was worth a sheep, and a pound of mace worth half a cow. The nutmeg you grated onto your holiday eggnog last month once fuelled a war resulting in the acquisition of Long Island for England. Cloves, which we now mix into our curries, were used to pay the bonuses of London dock workers in the 16th century, and Roman soldiers were frequently paid in salt, a practice that led to the word ‘salary’ and the phrase ‘to be worth his salt’.
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Although the trading of spices began in the Middle East more than four centuries ago, references to their healing qualities have been found well before then: in the Epic of Gilgamesh, the Bagavad Gita, and the Old Testament. Medicinal value took precedence, and increased the value of and demand for certain spices. Nutmeg was one of the most sought-after during the Spice Wars (battled out between the Portuguese and the Dutch, and later the Dutch and the English), as it was considered a miracle cure for the plague that killed more than 35 000 people in London in 1603.
Similarly, on vanilla being brought to Europe from Mexico, a German doctor scientifically concluded that it cured impotence in men (an early Viagra), while ginger, turmeric and chilli were also largely used to cure various forms of illness.
Aside from remedies, fortunes and countries were created and lost in the pursuit of spices. The trade of spices took place in exotic spice souks, which were alluring enclaves awash with indulgent pleasures, and an epicurean retreat. Straw sacks full of bold and vibrantly coloured powders shaped in mountain-like peaks would decorate the vast area, their purity and rarity shimmering like that of diamonds, rubies, emeralds and gold. The air would be warm and stuffy, punctuated by a heady combination of mystical fragrances from the likes of cumin, coriander and saffron, while the magical aromas wafting through would mix with the haggling murmurs of merchants and customers.
For foreigners, the peril of adventurous travel to uncharted terrain was great, yet the reward was well worth it, in the form of rare and beautiful gold, silver, ivory and ebony artefacts, silks and muslins, rare animals and new plant forms, as well as spices. Those lucky enough to own them were usually wealthy men of nobility, royalty, high-ranking church officials, and a few shrewd and clever merchants and businessmen. They would entertain visitors with captivating tales about fighting off fierce winged creatures to reach unknown spices growing high on cliff walls, in the dead of night, in order to justify high prices.
Initially conducted mostly overland by camel, the European Age of Discovery in the 15th century transformed the trade, and five years after Christopher Columbus discovered the New World in 1492, the envoy and diplomat Vasco da Gama set sail southward from Portugal with four tiny ships in search of a new route to the spice lands of Asia. Two years later, after a 24 000-mile round trip, Da Gama returned minus two ships but with a cargo of spices and other products worth 60 times the cost of the voyage to Africa and India. His route traced the South African coastline, establishing the Cape of Good Hope and introducing the spice industry to South Africa.
His findings brought about the development of the Silk Road connecting Asia and the Mediterranean world with North Africa and Europe, and helped develop the great civilisations of China, India, Egypt, Persia, Arabia, and Rome.
Spices today go far beyond the chilli powder Portuguese sailors spread from South America throughout the world, including India. They have opened new culinary worlds, with chefs constantly experimenting. “I remember working as a waiter in Cape Town in the late 80s, and one of the chefs came back from London with an ingredient that he raved about for weeks,” says Justin Bonello, cook and food presenter. The ingredient was rocket, something that we take for granted today, but it illustrates the continuing changes and transformation of spices.
Spices have now taken a whole new role, transferring from the typically savoury cuisine to dessert dishes, with spices such as chilli, salt and lemon grass used in chocolate. “I recently made a white chocolate ganache with a hint of chipotle spice, which is a Mexican smoke-dried jalapeno pepper spice, and the response was amazing,” says Anél.
Though spices today may not be as exotic and mysterious as yesteryear, relatively unknown ones are having an impact. Sumac is one such example, which Cape Town-based chef Neill Anthony cites as being the spice to watch. The Middle Eastern spice is traditionally used in Persian, Lebanese and Turkish cuisine, has a slightly acidic, fruity and sour taste, and goes typically well on fish, chicken and dressings.
Justin suggests smoked Malabar tamarind. “If you’re lucky enough to be able to get/find/steal/buy it, it can completely transform a fish curry,” he says.
The fascinating story of adventure, exploration, conquest and fierce naval rivalry that accompanies the historical progression of spices is likely to continue, as our penchant for trying out new tastes continues.
Contact Information
Anél Potgieter | anelpot@telkomsa.net
Neill Anthony | dumas.jeanae@gmail.com
Justin Bonello (Liané van Zyl)| liane@soapbox.co.za
